Sooo you might notice I just posted about million (or three) posts all at once. The struggle is that we are still lacking internet in our apartment, and I just did not have time to come to the Grec for several days. But who wants to read (or write) one looong post? Daunting. So anyway, pretend they are different days, because they were. Hopefully this will become a non-issue very soon.
An important sidenote: It has been raining off and on all day. Rain in Cairo! Who knew?!
Monday, October 26, 2009
Racing the sun.... literally
Last Friday, four friends and I had the delightful opportunity to spend the day at the beach. Our friend O works for the Embassy, an extremely handy circumstance since he has a car, a snazzy apartment, and access to a beach which he insists he owns. A somewhat unbelievable point that I will address later....
By the way, the work week is Sunday to Thursday here, so spending Friday at the beach is not like, "We are all terrible people and ditched work this Friday." Just to clarify.
We started out the morning by stopping by the Embassy grocery store. An absolute wonderland, I must say. We picked up all kinds of nice little treats that our local "Metro" grocery store lacks. The never-ending wine selection, endless options of potato chips, copies of The Economist and Vogue (who says my interests aren't varied?) in English, and generally American-y things completely captivated me.
After we stocked up for our beach barbecue, we hopped in the car for about an hour long ride to this unknown beach of O's, supposedly on the Red Sea. As we neared the beach, O tells us to start looking for the place to turn. So we say, "O, buddy, how are we supposed to know where to turn?" And he replies, "Just look for a group of palm trees that look like they are out of place." Hmm. Keep in mind, we have been driving for an hour with nothing but the desert around us. So as palm trees are starting to appear, I am sitting there thinking, "We are in the middle of the desert. EVERY palm tree looks out of place, and yet this is our ONLY form of description to find this place?! REALLY?"
Eventually after a bit of driving back and forth, O managed to recognize the specific group of palm trees that looked just perfectly out of place. Thank goodness. A wonderful day at the Red Sea ensued, complete with burgers, Corona (compliments of the Embassy shop, since it is SO not available in most of Egypt), and some classic country music.
On our drive home, we turned up the music and just enjoyed the ride. However, we experienced a small element of urgency because in order to be within Embassy rules, O cannot be outside the city limits of Cairo after dark. We packed up our things around 4pm to make sure we arrived home in time, but that sun is not always the most predictable thing. (Ok, so it DOES rise and set every day, but the exact moment? Not always the same). As we drove, the sun seemed to be determined to go down quite quickly. And we all felt a bit concerned about making it in time. But the sunset itself was BEAUTIFUL. Not one of those pinks and purples and floaty clouds kind of sunsets, which are very magical indeed. This sunset felt very bold - just this enormous orange-yellow round sun, sinking deeper and deeper into the desert as we sped toward it. Although I was quite convinced that the sun was going to win and O might be in big trouble, it did feel very poetic. Us against the sun.
You will be pleased to know that, despite all indications, we actually did beat the sun. Not only did we make it inside the city limits just as night fell, but we also enjoyed one of the loveliest sunsets I have ever seen. So I guess we won two times over...
By the way, the work week is Sunday to Thursday here, so spending Friday at the beach is not like, "We are all terrible people and ditched work this Friday." Just to clarify.
We started out the morning by stopping by the Embassy grocery store. An absolute wonderland, I must say. We picked up all kinds of nice little treats that our local "Metro" grocery store lacks. The never-ending wine selection, endless options of potato chips, copies of The Economist and Vogue (who says my interests aren't varied?) in English, and generally American-y things completely captivated me.
After we stocked up for our beach barbecue, we hopped in the car for about an hour long ride to this unknown beach of O's, supposedly on the Red Sea. As we neared the beach, O tells us to start looking for the place to turn. So we say, "O, buddy, how are we supposed to know where to turn?" And he replies, "Just look for a group of palm trees that look like they are out of place." Hmm. Keep in mind, we have been driving for an hour with nothing but the desert around us. So as palm trees are starting to appear, I am sitting there thinking, "We are in the middle of the desert. EVERY palm tree looks out of place, and yet this is our ONLY form of description to find this place?! REALLY?"
Eventually after a bit of driving back and forth, O managed to recognize the specific group of palm trees that looked just perfectly out of place. Thank goodness. A wonderful day at the Red Sea ensued, complete with burgers, Corona (compliments of the Embassy shop, since it is SO not available in most of Egypt), and some classic country music.
On our drive home, we turned up the music and just enjoyed the ride. However, we experienced a small element of urgency because in order to be within Embassy rules, O cannot be outside the city limits of Cairo after dark. We packed up our things around 4pm to make sure we arrived home in time, but that sun is not always the most predictable thing. (Ok, so it DOES rise and set every day, but the exact moment? Not always the same). As we drove, the sun seemed to be determined to go down quite quickly. And we all felt a bit concerned about making it in time. But the sunset itself was BEAUTIFUL. Not one of those pinks and purples and floaty clouds kind of sunsets, which are very magical indeed. This sunset felt very bold - just this enormous orange-yellow round sun, sinking deeper and deeper into the desert as we sped toward it. Although I was quite convinced that the sun was going to win and O might be in big trouble, it did feel very poetic. Us against the sun.
You will be pleased to know that, despite all indications, we actually did beat the sun. Not only did we make it inside the city limits just as night fell, but we also enjoyed one of the loveliest sunsets I have ever seen. So I guess we won two times over...
blessings...
A word of gratitude. I feel very thankful for the prayers supporting me being in this country. My gratitude is compounded by the fact that one of our friends here had to leave the country (permanently) today. Immigration issues and such... She found out last week that she had seven days to leave and that was that. Obviously this is an incredibly sudden and difficult thing, especially given that she had arrived here only weeks before me and was planning to stay here for quite some time. Last night a group of us gathered to spend time together, pray for her, and hang out at a restaurant on the Nile for her last night in Egypt. Though it is so hard to watch her in the midst of this struggle, we all can trust there is great (if unknown) purpose for her leaving.
The same day that she was asked to leave, my own visa was completely sorted out. Something for which I am extremely grateful...
The same day that she was asked to leave, my own visa was completely sorted out. Something for which I am extremely grateful...
just a few thoughts...
Sometimes I struggle to decide what to write about. Do I share a little anecdote of the day, or paint a bigger picture? I arrived here almost two weeks ago, and I have already had such a variety of experiences. It can be hard for my mind to unscramble it all. (Sidenote: on the subject of unscrambling, last night we played a game called Bananagrams... it's like Scrabble but each player has their own set of letters. Learned something new about myself: I am TERRIBLE at creating words out of a jumble of letters. Very disheartening indeed...)
So anyhow, I think instead of telling a tale, I will just share a few observations/moments:
1. They love Hannah Montana here. I love Hannah Montana too. Egyptians and Kathleen... not so different after all.
2. There are PLENTY of Starbucks in Cairo. I have yet to enjoy one, but I feel delighted to know that the option exists. Tragically enough, the gift cards don't work here. Mystery as to why not.
3. I had the opportunity to just play with babies at an orphanage the other day. It was just me and Amy and a roomful of Egyptian babies. At one point Amy looked over at me and I am surrounded by LOTS of crying children. In my lap, climbing on me, sitting next to me - all crying. From across the room with her perfectly content child she is like, "Kathleen what are you DOING to them?!" =) I plan on spending much more time there, if the children will let me...
4. In our struggle to get internet in our apartment, we have several more small tasks to accomplish. Yesterday Amy was on the phone with someone at whatever office it is we have to go to, and she asked what we need to bring with us. She is patiently listening, and then I hear her say, "You want me to bring a copy of our OWNER?" They finally explain we need a copy of our apartment owner's id or something fairly standard, but the rest of the day we amused ourselves with talking about making a copy of Mr. Iman. "Hey, Mr. Iman, can we make a quick copy of you?" Or picturing us walking a clone of Mr. Iman through the streets of Maadi to the office. I actually have never met Mr. Iman, but the concept of making a copy of him really tickled me..
5. I took my first lone taxi a few nights ago, and the experience was disastrous and comical. Turns out the driver actually had NO knowledge of the area, a fact that become painfully clear when we stopped and asked the EIGHTH person for directions. I counted. Basically, he would stop and ask someone, they fired off all kinds of unknown Arabic words, pointed, etc, and taxi man nodded and nodded. And then we would drive away from our helper and pull over to ask someone else about three seconds later. At first I thought the language barrier was the issue and my Arabic was to blame, but after we stopped at the local burger joint (why not?), and someone who was fluent in English and Arabic came out and translated everything, I realized I had simply gotten a very incompetent taxi man. Funny.
6. Amy and I are friends with two Egyptians who spent a year in Texas for work. They loved the cowboy boots, the hill country, and most of all, the kind and welcoming people. Direct quote. So compliments to all of you in Texas. As you go about your day today, just know that there are two guys in Cairo who insist the BEST year of their lives was in the homeland. In fact, they told us that their grand plan is if they aren't married by the time they are 30, they are moving back to Texas. Which we found extremely comical.
That's all for now....
So anyhow, I think instead of telling a tale, I will just share a few observations/moments:
1. They love Hannah Montana here. I love Hannah Montana too. Egyptians and Kathleen... not so different after all.
2. There are PLENTY of Starbucks in Cairo. I have yet to enjoy one, but I feel delighted to know that the option exists. Tragically enough, the gift cards don't work here. Mystery as to why not.
3. I had the opportunity to just play with babies at an orphanage the other day. It was just me and Amy and a roomful of Egyptian babies. At one point Amy looked over at me and I am surrounded by LOTS of crying children. In my lap, climbing on me, sitting next to me - all crying. From across the room with her perfectly content child she is like, "Kathleen what are you DOING to them?!" =) I plan on spending much more time there, if the children will let me...
4. In our struggle to get internet in our apartment, we have several more small tasks to accomplish. Yesterday Amy was on the phone with someone at whatever office it is we have to go to, and she asked what we need to bring with us. She is patiently listening, and then I hear her say, "You want me to bring a copy of our OWNER?" They finally explain we need a copy of our apartment owner's id or something fairly standard, but the rest of the day we amused ourselves with talking about making a copy of Mr. Iman. "Hey, Mr. Iman, can we make a quick copy of you?" Or picturing us walking a clone of Mr. Iman through the streets of Maadi to the office. I actually have never met Mr. Iman, but the concept of making a copy of him really tickled me..
5. I took my first lone taxi a few nights ago, and the experience was disastrous and comical. Turns out the driver actually had NO knowledge of the area, a fact that become painfully clear when we stopped and asked the EIGHTH person for directions. I counted. Basically, he would stop and ask someone, they fired off all kinds of unknown Arabic words, pointed, etc, and taxi man nodded and nodded. And then we would drive away from our helper and pull over to ask someone else about three seconds later. At first I thought the language barrier was the issue and my Arabic was to blame, but after we stopped at the local burger joint (why not?), and someone who was fluent in English and Arabic came out and translated everything, I realized I had simply gotten a very incompetent taxi man. Funny.
6. Amy and I are friends with two Egyptians who spent a year in Texas for work. They loved the cowboy boots, the hill country, and most of all, the kind and welcoming people. Direct quote. So compliments to all of you in Texas. As you go about your day today, just know that there are two guys in Cairo who insist the BEST year of their lives was in the homeland. In fact, they told us that their grand plan is if they aren't married by the time they are 30, they are moving back to Texas. Which we found extremely comical.
That's all for now....
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Arabic = trickkyyy
Well. I must say, I didn't think today's post was going to work out. When things like this happen, the brilliance of technology kind of freaks me out and is just a little obnoxious. (And yes, I do realize the irony of this since technology is also allowing me to share these thoughts with you across the world). But Google/blogger.com/whatever on my computer is just SO smart that it knows I am in Egypt and just ASSUMES that I know Arabic, so now my whole little toolbar at the top of my blog is in Arabic. So between all the options to click on and the slow internet connection, it took me quite some time to figure out what group of squiggly letters would allow me to write a new post. Bother.
However, today I did have my first Arabic lesson, so perhaps someday (soon?) I will actually be able to read those squiggly letters. My lesson went just swimmingly. Imad (can't figure out how to spell it, forgive me Imad) is an Egyptian friend who has tutored pretty much this whole group of people I am friends with over here. And he is very patient, thank goodness. I can see myself having a few outbursts over the difficulty of this language though. The way I am planning to tackle it is to learn the alphabet, but then focus on just conversational Arabic by writing and reading with the English characters - the transliteration. Supposedly this will be a titch easier to do. It just seems unfair though; it's like you have to learn TWO new languages! But in just over a week it has become abundantly clear that if I actually want to form friendships with Egyptians, which I clearly do, then I need to speak Arabic. I'll keep you updated on how that is going...
Yesterday Amy and I went out to Garbage City to spend time with her friend Siham. (Once again, I have no idea how to spell this. The only way I could remember to say her name is it's like scissors and ham.. siham. Clearly, I have to employ extremely juvenile methods to remember things.. yikes). Siham grew up in Garbage City, and I think she is about 20 years old. She was so thrilled to see Amy, and between Amy's Arabic and Siham's English, communication somehow works. Nancy, her two year old cousin, was also instrumental in the conversation by pointing alot, playing peek-a-boo, and being generally precious. I must say, it kind of rocks my world view to walk through winding streets piled high with trash and then enter a home and drink Fanta, chat, laugh, and look at pictures on Siham's computer from her cousin's recent wedding. In some ways it just feels so normal.
Well, Arabic studying is calling my name. Imad is teaching me again on Thursday and I would love to be able to say 'good morning, how are you' in a way that is at least sort of correct....
However, today I did have my first Arabic lesson, so perhaps someday (soon?) I will actually be able to read those squiggly letters. My lesson went just swimmingly. Imad (can't figure out how to spell it, forgive me Imad) is an Egyptian friend who has tutored pretty much this whole group of people I am friends with over here. And he is very patient, thank goodness. I can see myself having a few outbursts over the difficulty of this language though. The way I am planning to tackle it is to learn the alphabet, but then focus on just conversational Arabic by writing and reading with the English characters - the transliteration. Supposedly this will be a titch easier to do. It just seems unfair though; it's like you have to learn TWO new languages! But in just over a week it has become abundantly clear that if I actually want to form friendships with Egyptians, which I clearly do, then I need to speak Arabic. I'll keep you updated on how that is going...
Yesterday Amy and I went out to Garbage City to spend time with her friend Siham. (Once again, I have no idea how to spell this. The only way I could remember to say her name is it's like scissors and ham.. siham. Clearly, I have to employ extremely juvenile methods to remember things.. yikes). Siham grew up in Garbage City, and I think she is about 20 years old. She was so thrilled to see Amy, and between Amy's Arabic and Siham's English, communication somehow works. Nancy, her two year old cousin, was also instrumental in the conversation by pointing alot, playing peek-a-boo, and being generally precious. I must say, it kind of rocks my world view to walk through winding streets piled high with trash and then enter a home and drink Fanta, chat, laugh, and look at pictures on Siham's computer from her cousin's recent wedding. In some ways it just feels so normal.
Well, Arabic studying is calling my name. Imad is teaching me again on Thursday and I would love to be able to say 'good morning, how are you' in a way that is at least sort of correct....
Friday, October 16, 2009
Goodness gracious!
Today is a HOT day. Very very hot. Like, "I thought I was going to faint walking from my apartment to the Grec" kind of hot. At first I thought I was being overly dramatic and a bit of a weakling, but I just got a text from Amy confirming that it is one of the hottest days since the middle of the summer. And she is standing in the sunlight, listening a church service in Arabic. So I feel pretty lucky to be drinking a Coco-Light and sitting under a fan.
On a day like today I wish I could just jump into the Nile, although I hear that is not advisable. =) I did experience my first sailboat ride this week though. Amy and I rented a felucca for two hours for some crazy low price like $20. (Or something along those lines. I am still trying to figure out the Egyptian pound). A pal named Mohommad was our sailor, and he just sailed that boat as we lounged on the cushions, drank wine, and admired the sunset. Although the sunset had a very hazy quality to it, due to all the pollution here, it was truly magical. We talked about our dear friends, our wonderful families, and how special it is to be in this country together. We made friends with Mohommad and I laughed and smiled as Amy chatted, because really that's all you can do when you have absolutely no idea what is being said. Apparently she told him I am a "baby Egyptian", and he agreed. Can't argue with that.
On a day like today I wish I could just jump into the Nile, although I hear that is not advisable. =) I did experience my first sailboat ride this week though. Amy and I rented a felucca for two hours for some crazy low price like $20. (Or something along those lines. I am still trying to figure out the Egyptian pound). A pal named Mohommad was our sailor, and he just sailed that boat as we lounged on the cushions, drank wine, and admired the sunset. Although the sunset had a very hazy quality to it, due to all the pollution here, it was truly magical. We talked about our dear friends, our wonderful families, and how special it is to be in this country together. We made friends with Mohommad and I laughed and smiled as Amy chatted, because really that's all you can do when you have absolutely no idea what is being said. Apparently she told him I am a "baby Egyptian", and he agreed. Can't argue with that.
Thursday, October 15, 2009
the adventure begins....
I am sitting at Cafe Greco, or "The Grec", as I fondly call it (much to Amy's dismay), on my sixth day in Cairo. The Grec is largely frequented by expats, and I love it both for the slight retreat it provides from Cairo's busy streets and for the free internet, something which my apartment still lacks. Also, large umbrellas, sunshine, people lounging around drinking coffee, and the chatter of several languages coming together do put The Grec high on my list of happy places in the world. Obviously.
Last night as Amy, our friend Jeremy, and I walked through the streets on our way home from dinner (incredible pizza, a small lapse into totally American behavior), I was overcome yet again that I am really in this country. There are so many moments that feel so normal - just a few friends, hanging out, chatting as they walk home, popping into the corner grocery store to grab some milk on the way. No big deal. As we walked, I looked up, admiring all the colored tissue paper strung from building to building, remnants of celebrations from Ramadan, I am told. I do not know what they call this paper decoration here, but growing up, we called it papel picado when we made it in Spanish class to celebrate Cinco de Mayo. In a small way, it reminds me of home. But they do not call it papel picado here, and I do not actually understand why they strung the paper up in the first place, and I certainly do not have the vocabulary to ask these questions to the next Egyptian I meet. It is a subtle reminder that I now live in a country with a language I do not speak and a culture I do not understand. Both a scary and thrilling concept for me.
One of the most precious experiences I have had so far took place in Garbage City yesterday evening. Garbage City is exactly what it sounds like - a surprisingly enormous city built in and around garbage heaps. As you can imagine, the smell is less than delightful. Amy took me there two days ago, and we went to the recycling center, where women have created gorgeous rugs, bags, pillows and such from scraps of fabric. Truly, it was amazing - the beauty that can come from unwanted, cast-off, supposedly worthless pieces of trash. She took me next to a church carved out of a mountain. It actually is a church in a cave, and happens to be the largest church in the Middle East. We roamed the streets, I found myself a bit overwhelmed, and I was extremely thankful for a friend who knew the way and just let me follow.
So when we went back to Garbage City yesterday evening, I was expecting the smell, the random donkeys pulling carts filled with various things, and the occasional herd of sheep (goats?, hmm) in the road. What I was not expecting was to enter a family's house and spend the whole evening attempting to learn Arabic, teaching English, playing games with my new loves, aka little Egyptian boys whose names I cannot pronounce or remember at this point, and overall experiencing great hospitality. There were about ten little boys and one girl running around, and I am not quite sure who was who - cousins, brothers, friends, etc. What I am sure of is that thumb wars are a universally fun game when language fails, and that I want to get a better grasp on Arabic so I can solidify my friendship with the wonderful mothers who fed us Sprite and guava (papaya? melon? we all know my knowledge of fruits is a bit lacking, but it was good..) all evening. Until that happens though, I am certain my friendship with these women and their kids will grow from the laughter, hand gestures, and silliness I experienced last night. What a great blessing.
Well, it's time to move on from The Grec for today and explore a bit more of my new city. Until next time....
Last night as Amy, our friend Jeremy, and I walked through the streets on our way home from dinner (incredible pizza, a small lapse into totally American behavior), I was overcome yet again that I am really in this country. There are so many moments that feel so normal - just a few friends, hanging out, chatting as they walk home, popping into the corner grocery store to grab some milk on the way. No big deal. As we walked, I looked up, admiring all the colored tissue paper strung from building to building, remnants of celebrations from Ramadan, I am told. I do not know what they call this paper decoration here, but growing up, we called it papel picado when we made it in Spanish class to celebrate Cinco de Mayo. In a small way, it reminds me of home. But they do not call it papel picado here, and I do not actually understand why they strung the paper up in the first place, and I certainly do not have the vocabulary to ask these questions to the next Egyptian I meet. It is a subtle reminder that I now live in a country with a language I do not speak and a culture I do not understand. Both a scary and thrilling concept for me.
One of the most precious experiences I have had so far took place in Garbage City yesterday evening. Garbage City is exactly what it sounds like - a surprisingly enormous city built in and around garbage heaps. As you can imagine, the smell is less than delightful. Amy took me there two days ago, and we went to the recycling center, where women have created gorgeous rugs, bags, pillows and such from scraps of fabric. Truly, it was amazing - the beauty that can come from unwanted, cast-off, supposedly worthless pieces of trash. She took me next to a church carved out of a mountain. It actually is a church in a cave, and happens to be the largest church in the Middle East. We roamed the streets, I found myself a bit overwhelmed, and I was extremely thankful for a friend who knew the way and just let me follow.
So when we went back to Garbage City yesterday evening, I was expecting the smell, the random donkeys pulling carts filled with various things, and the occasional herd of sheep (goats?, hmm) in the road. What I was not expecting was to enter a family's house and spend the whole evening attempting to learn Arabic, teaching English, playing games with my new loves, aka little Egyptian boys whose names I cannot pronounce or remember at this point, and overall experiencing great hospitality. There were about ten little boys and one girl running around, and I am not quite sure who was who - cousins, brothers, friends, etc. What I am sure of is that thumb wars are a universally fun game when language fails, and that I want to get a better grasp on Arabic so I can solidify my friendship with the wonderful mothers who fed us Sprite and guava (papaya? melon? we all know my knowledge of fruits is a bit lacking, but it was good..) all evening. Until that happens though, I am certain my friendship with these women and their kids will grow from the laughter, hand gestures, and silliness I experienced last night. What a great blessing.
Well, it's time to move on from The Grec for today and explore a bit more of my new city. Until next time....
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